Sunday, August 12, 2012

SEOUL VACATION - BUKHANSAN NATIONAL PARK


SEOUL VACATION - BUKHANSAN NATIONAL PARK

Bukhansan National Park is a National Park right outside of Seoul’s city limits. It is a mountain hike and the park receives over 10 million visitors a year. The trail I hiked had an elevation of around 800 meters and was just straight up with a very steep grade.

Bukhansan National Park
















I took the subway and got off at the most proximate stop and rode my bike the rest of the way to the National Park. Along the way I passed a small temple called Gyeongguksa Temple.

Gyeongguksa Temple

Gyeongguksa Temple



































Gyeongguksa Temple

















The park was very nice. The visitors center had trail maps and the person working there spoke decent English. After I picked my route I set out to hike to the top. The beginning started very pleasantly, with a low grade and some streams and bridges. It then gradually built up to a more aggressive terrain.























It was hot. Real hot. August in Seoul cranks up to 38˚ (100 F) and it is humid. Very humid. It must have been mid-nighties the day I went up. I wore dry-fit everything and by the time I got to the top, I had sweated through everything even my socks. Luckily I had the foresight to bring sandals along


There was one area about two thirds of the way up that had a running spicket of cold running drinkable (Koreans told me it was at least) that saved me from the heat for about 5-10 minutes. I soaked my bandana and put it on my head to cool down.

Refreshing




















The climb itself was a physical challenge. It could have been the heat, but it ranks highly  among some of the most vigorous physical trials I have attempted.

Follow the rail with your eyes- Just up, up, up...
















The views were worth it. I got to the top of the trail. There was a gate and a placard explained the history of the gate and the wall that travels along the crest of the mountain. It dates back to the 1700s and was built after the Japanese had already invaded, as a preventative measure for future attacks.

The top
















The wall








































Seoul in the background

Seoul































I walked along the wall to another gate. Here people were resting, hanging out and picnicking. A note about this hike: it was a weekday so only retirees were in numbers, but man, old Korean people are in good shape! I was shocked how many men and women I saw in their 50’s, 60’s, 70’s.

The other gate







After having a rest and hiking about 3 km straight up I headed on the hour long descent down the mountain.

To reward myself, that I night I went with a French hostelmate named Kevin out to Itaewan for Middle Eastern Food, a rare find anywhere in Korea.



















Itaewan is the foreigner hub in Seoul. I had it described to me as the Mos Isley of Korea (Mos Isley is the cantina in Star Wars with all the weirdo aliens that’s also kind of seedy). Its also home to “hooker hill,” the red light district of Seoul, and “homo hill,” the one openly gay-friendly place in Korea. It’s very close to the military bases so there is a huge foreigner influence and swarms of drunk yelling Americans and their wives and girlfriends. There’s a Taco Bell, there are kebab and shwarma places everywhere. And there is a lot of ethnic food available.

Kevin and I enjoyed our food and smoked hookah. I hadn’t had hummus in months.

Mon Ami Kevin
















Later that night, deciding at 2AM, me and this 6 foot Dutch girl from the hostel named Carolien went out to a club in Hongdae called MamaPapaGorilla. We headed back to the hostel past sunrise  and I went to bed at 7:30AM.

MamaPapaGorilla




Friday, August 10, 2012

SEOUL VACATION - GETTING THERE & FIRST NIGHT

SEOUL VACATION - GETTING THERE & FIRST NIGHT

I was lucky enough to have a 5 day (paid) vacation within my first month of working so I decided to head up to Seoul, seeing as I have never been before. I booked my hostel reservation online for Bebop Guesthouse in Hongdae. Hongdae is the part of town surrounding Hongik University and is a primo spot for all things nightlife and revelry related.

From Changwon I rode Gretta with a backpackers’s pack full of 5 days worth of traveling necessities and rode to the Changwon Bus Station listening Ray Charles on my iPod.

I buy my ticket to Seoul for 27,000 won and by 10:30 AM I am on the 4 hour bus ride to Seoul. You can get to Seoul by train for about 30-40,000 won, with it being a little faster, a little more roomy and having full access to a bathroom (buses don’t have bathrooms). There is also the speed train that will get you there in 2.5 hours, but that’s closer to 40-50,000 won. I was on a budget.

Headed to Seoul
















I folded up Gretta and put the bike and the pack under the bus. The bus was comfortable offering us HD Olympic coverage to watch on TV.  I read Jack London’s Call of the Wild. There were nice views of the countryside to look at. 

Watching Olympic Fencing

Korean Countryside

Korean Countryside













































We had one rest stop where I bought what I thought was some sort of hotdog, but was it  actually made of some sort of fishmeal. To drown out the taste I doused every bite in ketchup, but that coupled with the humid 85 degree heat just reminded me of hot barf. Needless to say it was a dissatisfying experience but I was hungry so I ate the whole thing.


I arrive in Seoul at the express bus terminal. It’s in the 90's and very humid.  I get down to the subway and cannot find a full route map. Not leading into the station, not in the station, not on the platform. The first time I saw a full route map was ON an actual subway car. Luckily I picked the right line and right direction (and quickly got a map and an app) and headed to the Hongdae area of Seoul.

Seoul Subway
















Seoul Subway





















 Also Gretta worked perfect on the Seoul subway. She folds down to about the size of a suitcase. By this time I was hot, agitated and lost, so I let my social graces down and went (sweatily) sleeveless.

Sweaty, hot, agitated




















Bebop Guesthouse was super. I stayed there 4 nights. They had wifi, computers, towels, bikes to rent and free breakfast. I slept in a room with 4 bunk beds and people from France, Holland, Australia, Japan and Korea. All for 20,000 a night (less than $20).

Common Area at Bebop Guesthouse
















MK is a young Korean aspiring filmmaker who owns and operates the hostel. He’s traveled the world and speaks perfect English.  On my first night he took me and some other hostel guests out around Hongdae. We got Korean BBQ and then strolled aroung Hongdae visiting some unique and quirky shops. I met this Dutch guy Brendan. His mom is a flight attendant so while on break from university he can fly standby for cheap.

MK, Brendan and hostel guests

Toy Cafe in Hongdae
































Toy Cafe in Hongdae  

Brendon ended up buying a Groundskeeper Willy a la Vincent Van Gough portrait. "I'm Dutch," explained Brendan. "I have to have this." 

Toy Cafe in Hongdae

Strolling around Hongdae

















Art work in Hongdae







Art work in Hongdae


Shop in Hongdae

More food, more hostel guests


 Brendan talked me into going clubbing in Hongdae that night. It was his last night in Seoul and it was an experience he had not yet had. I was reluctant at first, but ended up having a really great time. Cheap drinks and no last call. I must have gotten home around 4 or 5.


Brendan and MK strolling around Hongdae





















Hongdae

Thursday, August 9, 2012

GETTING TO KNOW THE AREA

GETTING TO KNOW THE AREA

Having a bike has made Changwon easier to explore, I set out to go on a hike, but never actually made it to the trailhead. Instead I sort of ended up on what looked to be a fairly vacant highway construction site. It was still pretty cool and offered some nice views of the city. I was misled because there appeared to be a parks office booth, and there were many families picnicking along the stream, but there was no park/hiking area to be found.

Climbing up


At the top
At the top







Climbing down















Stream
















After that I rode past Changwon’s municipal rose garden. I went and checked to see if the cupid statute was Korean. Yep, he’s definitely Korean.

Changwon Municipal Rose Garden

Changwon Municipal Rose Garden

Changwon Municipal Rose Garden

Korean Cupid at Changwon Municipal Rose Garden




























































After cruising a little more I found a huge city skate park, that was apparently pretty good. I met a North Carolinian there who lives in Busan who specifically came to Changwon that day for this skate park. As it turns out this skate park is really close to my work.



Changwon Skate Park
Changwon Skate Park
































Also right near the skate park there is a small hiking area so I did end my day eventually hiking in some woods.
Some very proximate hiking

Some very proximate hiking - less than a mile from my work



GRETTA


GRETTA

I just got my new bike. Her name is Gretta Green the Green Machine. Gretta is a folding bike I bought online here in Korea with the help of my boss Mr. Park. It was a little more than $200 USD. The amazing thing when you buy things online in Korea, the longest its ever going to take is 2 days because it’s a small country.

Gretta folded, Gretta unfolded. 
She was delivered to my office. I had to buy an allen wrench set to attach the handle bars, but she rides nicely.

Now I can get around all of Korea by bus, train and taxi and have a bike with me wherever I go. Gretta is about the size of a suitcase when she's all folded.